Friday 14 December 2012

Sahara Fortnight


So if your looking for a place to go through cold turkey, perfect your loner or recluse skills, catch up on meditation or simply enjoy your movie library, Western Sahara is the place to go to!

1000+ kms of the same rocky desert background with 4 towns and a few villages  …. with village often meaning a petrol station and a military hut some  130km apart …. and of course a few camels!
Daily Background Picture
Sahara Lunchtime
Morocco is on a mission to populate the Western Sahara - came across some newly built empty villages – build it and they will come – or maybe not!
Newly Built Empty Village we camped in
Huge military presence here with lots of checkpoints. The locals refer to themselves as Sahrawi and not Moroccan but apparently they receive a nice monthly cheque for peaceful acceptance. There’s a UN presence here also but apart from occupying the most expensive hotels in Laayoune,  not sure what else they do!

We hit Tarfaya, a dusty old forgotten town,  Layoune, the capital had a strange artificial atmosphere and was ridiculously over policed, Bojador was a really nice small authentic beach town while Dakhla was the coolest of all the towns with a strong surf vibe and even a Catholic church!

Measuring the amount of food and water needed between stops was a fine art and Ollie got a good old chase off some hungry wild dogs at one point.
Hand of Allah says no to speeding

Rooftop Animal Carriage

Ollie outside Bojador

Road to Dakhla

100's km of untouched beaches

Sahara coastline fishermen huts
Mauritania on the other hand redefined the word primitive but with a special charm. Food can be tricky to find never mind internet! Apart from fishing and an iron ore mine, there’s tent / hut settlements and 2 main towns … and be careful to bring your waterproof gear – it rains 1 day a year!

Village Accommodation
Village Restaurant
The landscapes changes from rocky desert to proper sand dunes  … and a lot more camels to chat to!
Video of cycling past camels here: http://youtu.be/VUmEqpqeX7c

Camel Family
simple directions

Scaring the camels

Camel Crossing

Poser Camel
Camel Transport
We cycled through the first village without realizing that the roadside huts were the shops (Boutiques). Everything is imported so its more expensive – still haven’t figured out what the locals eat – fruit and vegetables are a rare sight outside the 2 main towns.
Guess what - a shop!


Have joined cycling forces with Tim from Germany – a master in outdoor living!
Also bumped into a crazy French couple who are walking from France to Ghana!

Next stop is southern Mauritania to the Senegalese border and then onto Dakar for Xmas. Trip total 5588km – all going well – enjoying the ever increasing relaxed nomadic existence.

North African Irish Border

Bringing in the fish

Camping Sunset

Block Drying Nouakchott
Mauritanian Sahara bird - Greg?
A border note for other intrepid travelers … Western Sahara  Mauritanian border closes at 6 sharp. There’s a crazy Mad Max like no man’s land in between the borders with a very rocky road and no sign posts. Dirham and Euro Exchange and large tent accommodation the far side. No mention of needing the yellow fever vaccine. Funny to see the army using a mobile phone as a lamp in their office to read the passports in the evening light.
No Mans Land Western Sahara Mauritanian Border

4 comments:

  1. Replies
    1. Cheers Nick - fan of the year! - hows the 'go live' party plans going back there?

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  2. Merry merry Xmas to both of you! To say we are jealous would be a gross understatement! Hope you are having the trip of a lifetime... We are thinking of you and can't wait to read all about your upcoming adventures! All the best, Alasdair & Katie (NYC)

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  3. Maria -Australia24 July 2018 at 22:34

    Thanks for the blog. Great pictures! It gives me an idea of what it's like South of Agadir.

    I've spent 2 weeks in Marrakech and Essaouira and I'm on my way back home to Australia.But looking at options for my next trip back! On the train someone mentioned Dakhla!

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