Saturday 23 March 2013

At one with the Toffee Crisp: Monrovia to Abidjan


Fete Des Masque,  Man, Ivory Coast
Hanging out at cascading waterfalls, hiking up tropical peaks, lying naked in cold mountain streams, sleepful star gazing to nocturnal forest sounds - nourishment of the soul doesn't get much better than this.

Washing the bikes in Monrovia revealed the surprise of severely cracked wheel rims. So, avoiding the treasure hunt for new wheels we naively ventured on to a plethora of punctures along the way. The border between Liberia and Ivory Coast was closed, due to bandit activity, so we had to detour back into Guinea to lots of UN and military checkpoints along the way.

The Kpatkwee waterfall in northern Liberia was amazing. So also was the declining response we received from an old man when we requested to camp outside his house; 'the devil is in the bushes'.  People on occasion, especially in the countryside, get freaked out at the sight of a white man and sometimes run in the other direction.

A severe case of the shits while camping outside someones house left a trail of suprises for the owner the following morning but thankfully the hens had cleaned up a bit!

Re-entering Guinea highlighted how much Liberia had lost of its African identity and also reminded how bad the Guinean roads were - but once again the forest scenery compensated :) It was also a lot cheaper as we had 'chopped a lot of money' in Liberia. (Liberian English very hard to understand but thats one term I got)

We also met up with a long lost friend called 'Rain' and witnessed the mushing of the local roads. Starting to rain a little every second day or so even though the rain season is officially a month away.

Hiking up Mount Nimba in South Guinea was cool and with Yves persuasion we chose the scenic/piste route through northern Ivory Coast. It paid off encountering cocoa, coffee, cashew, pineapple plantations and also getting to sample a local delicacy of 'Agouti' - big rodent! as well as encountering preparations for an annual Fete Des Masque in one of the villages.

My wheel became impossible to true anymore but I just about made it to a big town called Man to find a supercharged Chinese replacement for a whopping 3 Euros! Ollie also was cycling with a spot weld on his axle.

The Ivorian people are the most relaxed nation so far, with little shouting or screaming at us, and its no surprise to learn that they are the most developed country in West Africa. Quite a distinct divide between the Muslim north and Christian south but the tensions here are more political than religious.

We swung by a city called Yamoussoukro, an unnatural political capital with an amazingly impressive Basilica - rivaling that in Rome but completed in just 3 years for an undisclosed price - a gift to God from the Ivorian president, stolen from the Ivorian people.

Then onto the real capital of Abidjan, a huge modern city rivaling any in the west. skyscrapers, spiraling 6 lane highways and the rest and most important of all a cheap Catholic Mission to stay at, notion to mention some booty shakin to observe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZI34NyNpjXg

9,868km on the clock. Ghana next and then a direct flight to South Africa – my African curiosity has been satisfied enough to detour over Central Africa :)


A long lost Meath faithful

Fresh eggs for a long journey
How to transport a Solar Panel


47 Degrees!

Coffee Stop on Guinean Ivorian Border




Where's the bridge gone
Travel Safe


Yves Irish naturalisation ceremony to avoid any French hostility in Ivory Coast

Ollie in bike shop Monrovia

Bollywood Photo?

Loading the pirogue - I'm taking the swimming option

Kpatkwee waterfalls, Nothern Liberia

Pirogue Transport

Anyone for a worms snack

Mid jouney nap under your vehicle - a regular site - not to mention deforestation

Another mouthful of dust!

Ants everywhere down here

Basicila in Yamousuckro, Ivory Coast

Cashew  Nuts - grows on the end of its fruit

Celebrity status once again

Another big tree

Dried Casava Leaf with fried Plataines and of course fish - fish mad they are down here

Cindy temporarily upgrading her 2 wheels

Fresh Cocoa

Cotton Tree

Sorting Cocoa

Coffee Tree

Drying grains along the road.

Lunch-time

Ensuite Bathroom! - Rural West African homes normally have a washing enclosure outside their house

Big Centipede Friendo

Big Locust Friendo

Firestone Rubber - a dodgy history in Liberia

Head Loads - people transport everything by head - even their shoes

Coffee with the locals in Man, North Ivory Coast

A low profile Paddys Day

Near Liberian Ivorian Border

Dead Flies

Yves giving Ollie a headache

Cindy Yves on Forest Trek

Nimba View

Simon Garfunkal Album Cover

Pineapple Plantation South Ivory Coast

Palm Wine and Papaya Snack

Pineapple Plant - I always thought it was a tree!

Plantations

Guinea Road Surface

Rubber Plantations

Road Mush
















Road to Abidjan

Huggy Statue Abidjan


Dam Central Ivory Coast

If u need to land a plane

Mosque in Man surrounded by mountains

Another fine mosque

Burst Rim - thank you Guinea

Water Sachets - we have drunk 1000's of these in West Africa - 5p for  300ml

Brekkie treat - when u manage to find oats

Yves anti fuel stove approach - 15 yr old pot and stand
Route recording for future days of amnesia

7 comments:

  1. bob.....this is bonkers, u absolute loonbag!...makes for excellent reading, im glued. I love it. very jealous. hope the shits have cleared up ;) and make sure you keep 'washing your hands with soap'. mind urselves and keep the sentence wizadry coming!

    rasher.

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  2. Remember Brendan, important and cool men use johnnies.

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  3. Nourishment for the soul indeed. This should be translated into a book and screenplay. Amazing journey.

    - Ollie's friend APL in Westchester :)

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  4. Great blog. We loved CoteD'Ivore, did you read our blog about Yamasoukro? If you fly into Jo'Burg, we know of a great place to camp, 'The shoestring airport lodge', Rob the owner will collect you from the airport. Do email us as we love to hear from you.
    love
    Ping

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  6. Brendan, hope you enjoyed in the FĂȘte des masques :-)
    I like your pics, my favorite is where the people are walking with some stuff on the head, good balance!
    Enjoy the fresh fruits miam miam, regards to Ollie and besos to you.
    Continue having a wonderful trip.
    Chauuuuu
    S.

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  7. Hope you're having a fantastic time Ollie! <3

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